I have the worst combination skin. It’s dry and flaky on my cheeks, and even at times on my forehead, but just a hot oily mess across my nose and chin. Since I’ve been making lotions and creams, I’ve attempted two face moisturizers. One balm, which left my skin feeling oily and heavy, and one lotion just packed with every skin loving ingredient I could think of, which tingles when I first put it on, and while it doesn’t add to the oily mess, it isn’t quite enough for the dry skin.
Recently, Marie over at Humblebee & Me posted a recipe for a moisturizing skin balm. It relies on using mango butter, which goes on deliciously dry and silky, and a cocktail of “drying” oils, along with a bit of arrowroot starch for a matte finish and to absorb shine. I tweaked her recipe because I didn’t have the exact oils on hand. You can possibly tweak it a little further, as noted.
Actually, when I first read it, I had hopes of turning it into a lotion as well. But there’s no way to incorporate a starch into a water based lotion, it would simply become a glue like substance which is not good at all and would be conducive to mold and other bad things. So I made it as is, and it’s actually very nice.
You can find the original recipe, which is called Seabuckthorn Mattifying Moisturizer, here.
My version, which I am loving, is below (I took the text mostly word for word off the Humblebee & Me website) :
Mango Butter Mattifying Moisturizer
5g Castor oil (please use castor oil!)
7g Mango Butter (please use Mango Butter! Shea butter and cocoa butter are too greasy and heavy)
4g Broccoli Seed Oil (If you don’t have this, sub in any skin loving oil like grapeseed or even argan if you want to splurge)
4g Rose Hip Oil (other choices here are evening primrose oil or hazelnut oil)
18g arrowroot starch (can substitute cornstarch or wheat starch)
2 blobs benzoin essential oil or 15 drops essential oils of your choice.
Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer in a small saucepan.
Weigh the castor oil, mango butter, broccoli seed oil, and rosehip oil in a small heat resistant glass measuring cup. Place that measuring cup in your water bath to melt everything through—that’ll take ten minutes or less.
Once the oils and butters have melted through, remove them from the heat and stir in the arrowroot starch and benzoin with a flexible silicone spatula, taking care to break up any clumps, until you have a smooth, uniform mixture. Stir frequently until it starts to get viscous or the starch will just sink to the bottom, but keep it soft enough to pour into your container. There’s definitely a sweet spot. If you let it cool to much, pop it back in the hot water for a few seconds.
Place a 30mL/1 ounce tin on a small plate. Pour the oil/starch mixture into the tin and carefully transfer the plate with the tin to the fridge (the plate is only there to make it easier to move the tin).
Leave the tin in the fridge to set for one hour. Voila! To use, just take a wee bit of the moisturizer into your hand to soften it a wee bit, and spread it across your skin.
I can’t emphasize enough that this is not my invention, only a slightly modified version of someone else’s hard work that I’m sharing with you. That being said, I hope you get some enjoyment and use out of it. I make an oil and corn starch anti chafing balm in the summer that’s been a godsend, I don’t know why it never occurred to me to try something like this. But in between the drying oils and the light and silky Mango Butter, it doesn’t leave a greasy finish and the starch helps soak up a good deal of the oil my face puts out throughout the day. Also, some of the dry skin on my cheeks is clearing up. I’ve considered trying some with sericite mica in it along with the starch, so that it would help blur imperfections and fine lines. It’s definitely a possibility! I think I can increase this by 2-4g before it beads up on my skin. I may melt it back down and add 4 g of the mica. Watch for an addendum if I do!